To my beloved readers: Last week was a bit of a hectic one and I apologize for doing this post now, on a Wednesday, the week after it was due. But I feel that 'better late than never' works in most cases... with the exception of periods, taxes and changing expired tags on your car...(My mother is rolling her eyes and laughing right now).
Speaking of my adorable mother, she was my sidekick this week for my assignment. I brought her along because I have met few people in my life that are as passionate about this weeks topic as she is. This glorious week, I was lucky enough to visit one of the best chocolate shops around. We had the opportunity to learn everything that the head Chocolatier knew about chocolate and we were able to eat. Lots. Of chocolate.
Welcome to week number three....
Artisan Chocolates
Coco Flow was our destination this week. A sweet (in all ways possible) little chocolate store that just moved to Bricktown, in Oklahoma City. The red neon sign on the red brick storefront told us we were in the right place and we hurried inside, out of the chilly, rainy weather as fast as possible. As warmth seeped through our clothes, our noses were met with a heavenly aroma that could hardly be described. My mother and I eagerly went to the counter and ordered two hot chocolates, made from scratch, that came in ceramic mugs with a giant dollop of whipped cream to help cool down the steamy drink.
We sat and drank our hot chocolates, licking and smacking our lips every few seconds as we waited to speak to Gene Leiterman. He is the owner and Chocolatier of CocoFlow and the mastermind behind all of the artisan chocolates we found in his store. He sat down with us and brought a plate that had an assortment of chocolates on it.
My mothers' eyes lit up as she glanced down at the plate. Gene smiled warmly as he greeted us both and told us that he was going to teach us about chocolate.
He began by asking us a simple, yet extremely important question....
What do you love about chocolate?
"Everything" My mother breathed. She laughed. "I love chocolate the way Stephanie loves white rice."
(Have you been reading bloggers? If so, you are laughing right now. Good Job You.)
Chocolatier Gene Leiterman with Adorable Debbie George
Gene began telling us that he got into his line of work because he loved working with chocolate. He loved the way it made people feel. The experiences that go along with it. The memories. He asked us if we knew where chocolate came from. I (having gone to Pastry School a-thank you) said 'A cocoa pod'.
My mother guessed "Heaven".
Gene began telling us of its origins.
'I used to think that chocolate grew on vines. That they were similar to a coffee bean and grew in a plant. I was sadly mistaken when I found out that it actually grows on trees.'
(insert chocolate tree joke here)
'Chocolate comes from a cocoa pod. And those grow on the trees that can be massive. Up to 90ft. tall in some cases. A cocoa pod is actually a fruit that is shaped like and almost the size of a football. They vary in color, but most of them have vibrant colors. Greens, oranges, yellows and intense reds.'
(Debbie George): 'Does the color indicate flavor?'
(Gene): 'No, not flavor, but rather ripeness of the fruit. You see, When you crack a cocoa pod open, there is a white, fleshy fruit inside. Inside the fruit are little black seeds. The black seeds are what we know as cocoa beans. They look very much like coffee beans and are very bitter to taste.'
'They scoop the seeds out (they are usually encased in a flavorless 'goo') and are spread out on huge tarps to dry out. They put the seeds, or beans in the sun and allow the slime to dry up. They wash the cocoa beans and clean them well and then they set them back in the sun and let them dry even more. What they are doing is fermenting the beans. Just like with wines... different beans have different flavors just like grapes grown in one area will not taste the same as some grown across the world in a different climate.
Chocolate comes from all over the world and you must take into account the area when growing a cocoa tree. The climate, the soil, what was planted there previously, the water... most things that winemakers who have huge vineyards need to consider... chocolate harvesters must also do the same.'
'Now, when the beans are dried out, they roast them. Just like they would a coffee bean. Once roasted, the shells are cracked off and there is a small piece in the middle. the 'meat' of the entire bean. It is called the Nib and it is the only usable part. It is bitter, but also has a nutty, oaky flavor to it. They mash up all the nibs they have collected and begin to make chocolate. Industrial machines make a paste out of the nibs and then press them all down, like you would see in a french press, and end up with a layer of oil on top. This is what they use to make cocoa butter. Cocoa butter is made from the oils of the nib and is what makes chocolate so sexy. It is what makes chocolate melt in your mouth and gives chocolate that silky, velvety texture. Cocoa butter is sold alone, for recipes that need that silky texture. The difference between cocoa butter and regular butter is cocoa butter remains hard at room temperature. It will snap in half and only melts at about 98 degrees farenheit.
'Now we begin our little experiment. I have on this plate a few different chocolates. I want you to taste each one and tell me what you think. Tell me what you taste and see if you can pick up individual flavors in each. I will start with blended chocolates, since that is what you find most often when you purchase chocolate chips. Here is my order:
1) Candied Nib
2) Blended dark chocolate. 52% cocoa.
3) Blended Milk chocolate. 27% cocoa.
4) Amarcaibo Venezuelan single origin chocolate. 64% cocoa.
5) Mexican single origin chocolate. 65% cocoa.
6) Dominican Republic single origin chocolate. 70% cocoa.
7) (bonus!) Tanzanian single origin chocolate. 75% cocoa.
In the middle I have some of my chocolates from here at the shop that I have made with these different single origin chocolates. I like single origin chocolate because it gives flavor. There is so much more to a truffle when you use a chocolate with enough flavor that it can stand on its own.'
#1 Candied Nib-
Debbie) Its much sweeter than I thought it would be!
Gene) Yes, they caramelize it and add lots of sugar to make it sweet. Can you taste the bitters underneath?
D) Yeah. there is a definite flavor there.
G) Also know that the nib is softer than this. This is hard and crunchy because it has been candied. Natural nibs usually have a distinct oaky, nutty and bitter flavor... Want to try the next?
D) Yes!!!
#2 Blended dark chocolate
G) Now what we have here is a blended dark chocolate. It is very common and you will probably think of Hershey's or of Toll House chocolate chips when you taste this. Now, the best way to taste chocolate... especially a chip like this, is to put it at the back of your tongue, and press it up against the roof of your mouth. The cocoa butter helps it melt faster and you will taste the flavors better.
D) It tastes bitter, like dark chocolate is. Your right. It reminds me of any regular dark chocolate I've tasted.
G) Lets try the next one.
#3 Blended milk chocolate
D) This one is much sweeter, creamier.
G) That is because of the milk protein they blended with it.
D) It isn't as satisfying as the first one. I need more of this one to be happy.
#4 Single origin Amarcaibo Venezuelan dark chocolate
D) This one is not sweet. It is very bitter.
G) Yes, this should have a very intense dark flavor immediately. I think of a round, dark cloud when I taste this.
D) This is a huge difference. It melts quickly and is amazing. It is silky and sweet after a minute. You can taste the flavor- such a difference from the other dark chocolate! It is a gentle flavor as well... I get kind of a tropical taste from it.
G) I make a ganache out of these and roll them in powdered sugar to help round out the flavor. They are basically truffle bits.
#5 Mexican single origin chocolate
G) This chocolate is 65% cocoa. Anything with over 50% cocoa is considered dark chocolate. And the more cocoa in the chocolate, the darker and more flavorful it will be. What do you think of this one?
D) The flavor doesn't pour out of this one. It takes awhile for the flavors to come about. It is very subtle at first. Almost waxy... takes a long time to melt but once it does... it is almost....sweet. Not as bitter. It is still strong but has a delicate flavor. I like it.
G) Yes, I get a very earthy flavor from this. I take into account where it is from... Mexico, and I see the musty, earthy, dry climate it is grown in. I understand that cactus plants grow in similar areas and that is what I taste in this chocolate. Muted, earthy, not very bitter... I usually make a Mexican chipotle truffle with this chocolate. I blend a few citrus flavors and spices to enhance its natural flavor and bring it to the front of the pallete.
#6 Dominican Republic single origin chocolate
D) This one is dry. Long time to melt, but gets sweeter and smoother as it melts. It is powderey, not as smooth. But it has a strong finish. Very flavorful.
G) This is what I call a 'canopy chocolate' It has a certain sweetness. It is darker, but it is not like the other two. It has a tropical fruity finish to it. For this one I usually make a ganache and cover it in crunchy chocolate curls. It has so much flavor to it that I let it stand alone.
#7 Tanzanian single origin chocolate
G) Now this dark chocolate has 75% cocoa. The darkest we have tasted so far. It should have a lot of flavor.
D) It is much smoother. A long start. So much flavor in the beginning. Not as bitter, a strong flavor... I really like it.
G) This one has qualities very similar to the tannins found in wine. It is earthy and nutty, but very fruity as well. I taste a lot of banana in this. The fields where this was grown used to be huge banana fields. One day they cleared it all out and planted cocoa trees. You must always take into account everything that will effect the flavor of the chocolate. Everything from the climate, to the soil. It will all effect the flavor.
Gene) 'Now, I want you to try the truffles. The reason I make my truffles slightly large is because I love the earthy, organic qualities of real truffles (mushrooms). I feel very strongly that chocolate truffles should mirror that same organic feel. They should be hand-rolled, large in size and smooth. A truly exceptional truffle should be smooth. Not gritty. You should be able to see the bite marks in the chocolate. I like the idea that truffles this large (1 oz.) should be shared between four people. It is an experience. Not just the taste but the memories that go along with the chocolate.'
The lavender truffle is a great nighttime chocolate. It is deep and sexy. You can smell the lavender as you bite into it. It is full of flavor and well rounded. It tastes like evening.
This one melts away immediately. Remember that there is no chocolate in this. It is very sweet because of all the sugar and milk protein with the cocoa butter. The more fat, the faster it melts and the creamier and smoother it is. These truffles almost taste like a ball of buttercream frosting. If you like sweet, this is your paradise.
This truffle melts away quickly as well. The high fat content makes it silky but not greasy. It still has that great chocolate flavor to it because of the 41% cocoa. Notice how you can see the scoop marks in the middle of the truffle where we cut it? You want it creamy and smooth like that.
This one is called Almond 'Sashimi'. It is a dark chocolate/almond emulsion with a almond 'marzipan' rolled in almond flour. The flavor of this has great contrast and will remind you a bit of Baklava with the honey, nuts and chocolate.
As the magical day in the chocolate shop came to a close, my mother and I realized that we had learned so very much! We looked around Coco Flow and saw the other tempting treats that Gene makes by hand every single day.
I realize that everyone could by a box of chocolates in the grocery store. But somewhere between the cocoa tree and the mass production of chocolates these days... it is small chocolate shops like Coco Flow that don't get the attention deserved and are the true gems. For those of you who love chocolate, this is where you will visit when you go to heaven. You will frolick among fields of truffles and live in a land that has single origin specialty chocolates everywhere. May you be good in this life so you can live amongst chocolate in the next. :)
I leave you now with a few more pictures from Gene's shop, and a few quotes I found for you about this incredible treat. Thank you again for reading and may your week have chocolate in it!
'I don't understand why so many "so called" chocolate lovers complain about the calories in chocolate, when all true chocoholics know that it is a vegetable. It comes from the cocoa bean, beans are veggies, 'nuff said.'
'I have told myself that I could easily give up chocolate.... But then again, I'm not a quitter."
Coco Flow
(405)524-9500
100 E. Main Suite 101
Oklahoma City, OK 74301
cocoflow.com
